We survived the Nullarbor!

And the Great White Sharks, too! To celebrate our survival, we have just released the next installment from Pickle Productions and it should be live on YouTube in the next couple of hours very, very shortly – it took all night to upload the video, and YouTube are processing it now. Click here to take a peek.

So, hello everybody. We have been out of touch for the last week or so due to limited mobile phone signal and internet access.

We mentioned in our last blog that we had a date with the Great White Sharks in Port Lincoln. It was, quite simply, the most amazing experience! Up until now, both the Penguin Parade at Phillip Island, and the F1 Grand Prix in Melbourne, ranked as our top experiences during our time here in Australia. Not anymore…

Having forked out nearly £1000 for the two of us, we were concerned that the tour company was unable to offer any guarantee that we would actually see any sharks. A pretty reasonable concern to have, I would say. Fortunately, we need not have had any concerns at all, as we saw four different sharks, including one 5 metre long female – she is the one attacking the boat in our video!

Everybody was able to spend 45 minutes underwater, in a cage, with the sharks that, surprisingly, hung around all day. During this time the crew aboard the boat were enticing the sharks with tuna fish and fish guts to encourage them to stick around the boat.

Absolutely buzzing from this experience, we were keen to make the journey across the Nullarbor. Initially we had plans to take our time making the journey, however, once on the road we decided to knock it out in just two days.

The journey itself was not as bad as we had envisaged, although we have decided that outback life is not really for us. The sheer distance between places, the dry and dusty landscape, and the masses of bush flies, were factors that contributed to this revelation. As expected, the price of fuel was astronomical and, in places, cost in excess of 30% more than anywhere else that we have filled up!

We spent a couple of days at Ceduna stocking up with food and water, and getting the van ready for the journey. We had previously purchased an iron jerry can holder, that looks like a small cage, which needed to be fitted to the roof rack, so this was a job for the self-appointed DIYer in the team.

Before hitting the road, we were keen to visit a wombat rescue centre that we had read about on someone else’s travel blog. We had not seen any wombats so far, so this seemed like the perfect opportunity, and it did not disappoint. Val, the lady who runs the rescue, is an amazing woman, and she spent the morning talking to us about wombats, showing us around her home, and introducing us to the injured/abandoned animals that she cares for. It was a memorable experience, and we would highly recommend that all other travellers pay Val a visit.

Leaving Ceduna on Easter Saturday, we headed to a roadhouse at a place called Mundrabilla, based on some positive reviews that we had previously stumbled across. Mundrabilla, a small town that is roughly half way between Ceduna and Norseman, with a population of 9 people (yes, nine!), consists of a petrol station, motel and “caravan park”. Oh, and the 8th hole (or the 11th, depending which way you are travelling) of the Nullarbor Links, which is the longest golf course in the world, spanning 1300 km between Ceduna and Kalgoorlie (north of Norseman).

On the way we stopped at Nullarbor Roadhouse, where we filled up with fuel ($2/litre, UK prices in other words!), and headed towards the shade under a manmade shelter so that we could have our lunch. There was an enormous crash, and we wondered what we had hit. Then we remembered the 20 litre jerry can, which stands about 1.5 feet tall on the roof rack. We had crashed the jerry can into the roof of the shelter. Oops! Upon inspection, we realised that we had bent the roof rack out of shape, and one of the legs that holds the rack to the roof has been pulled out of position slightly. Nothing too serious, thankfully, but we do need to get it checked over to make sure that everything is safe, and water tight!

We were both so annoyed that we hadn’t given a thought to the height restriction on the shelter, but figured that if this was to be our biggest problem, it really wasn’t so bad.

Crossing the border into Western Australia (WA), we came across our first RBT (Random Breath Testing unit), and I had to provide a specimen to show that I was not driving under the influence of alcohol. The guy also took the opportunity to quiz us on whether we were carrying ‘anything that we shouldn’t be’ and was, apparently, satisfied that we weren’t.

At Mundrabilla, we met an English backpacker who was working at the roadhouse as the petrol attendant, barman, chef and cleaner, and we spent the evening chatting to him as we enjoyed a couple of cold drinks at the bar. Later, as the sun was setting, the sky became illuminated – in one direction the sky was a variety of red hues, and in the other it was blue, purple and pink. Stunning. Once the sun had sunk down beyond the horizon, we were treated to the most amazing, and abundant, display of stars, unlike anything that we have ever seen – we reckon that we could see the Milky Way! After 6 hours driving, an early night was in order. Oh, and we would thoroughly recommend Mundrabilla as a great place to stop for the night.

We were back on the road by about 8 o’clock the following morning, destination: Norseman, which was a 7 hour drive. Relentlessly, the wind was howling, the sun was streaming in through the driver’s side window all day, and the temperature outdoors was in the high 30’s, which made driving very comfortable. With the windows wide open, to avoid using the air con, it was like sitting under the hair dryer. The van was struggling too, and it’s temperature guage would shoot up as soon as the speedo went anywhere near 100 kph. We could have stayed at any one of a number of road side rest areas for the night, but with the thought of a “luxurious” caravan park just a few hours away, we soldiered on, albeit at a more leisurely (and frustrating) pace of about 55 mph!

By this point we had given up on listening to music, counting the road kill, and even talking to each other. Not even an energy drink had the power to muster up any sign of life from either of us! We staggered through the gate of the caravan park at Norseman, which is probably the worst that we have ever stayed at, and gave into another early night. After all, we wanted to be up early in the morning, and away from this hole of a caravan park as soon as possible…

As already mentioned, our trek across the Nullarbor has confirmed that we are city slickers, and not country folk. However, we did have an amazing time – in the kind of place that we have never seen before (nor likely to again), but we are certainly not in any hurry to head back in the opposite direction.

We were both surprised at how green the whole area was – even though the Nullarbor Plain is illustrated as being green on the map, we really were not expecting that. We were also shocked by how many people were making the same journey as us, in either the same or opposite direction. The majority of people using the road are truck (or road train) drivers, followed by caravaners, although a larger than expected number of people appear to use this as any other commuter route.

Besides the people, we saw a variety of wildlife too – one echidna, two shingleback lizards, a flock of emus, about a dozen wedge tailed eagles, and a whole host of massive black crows. Despite the signs along the road, we saw no sheep, cows, camels, wombats or kangaroos, and we were pleasantly surprised at the lack of road kill. Having said that, there was a stretch of road just across the SA/WA border where we lost count of the number of dead kangaroos, and a similar stretch around Yalata, in SA, where we saw nothing but dead wombats.

Surprisingly, we probably saw as many empty beer bottles on the side of the road as coke cans or dead kangaroos. This is not the first time that we have realised the drinking problem in Australia, where it is not unusual for people to drive their car while working their way through a carton of beer!

We are now in Esperance, which is almost at the SW-most tip of Australia. The beaches here are amazing, and continually voted as the best in the country – Lucky Bay is the pick of the bunch, and is famous for it’s crystal clear water, white sand and the kangaroos that sunbathe there. We have driven nearly 1500 km to get here, and we are still 1000 km from Perth. The next stage of our journey will be much more leisurely than the last one, and we have every intention of kicking back on the beach, exploring the local areas, and maybe ‘chucking a line in the water’ somewhere between here and our next destination. With the prospect of getting jobs in Perth, we are certainly in no particular rush to get there…

We hope that everyone had a happy Easter and that you enjoyed the long weekend. We celebrated Easter with a hot cross bun, as we didn’t think the chocolate would survive the outback. We understand that it is the royal wedding this week, and that you have another long weekend. And the sun is still shining?! How lucky. Enjoy…

Happy birthday to my Mum for later in the week – I hope to catch up with you soon.

Lots of love from us both, xx

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Adelaide, South Australia

Hello to all of our subscribers.

We are sorry for having not been in touch for the last two or three weeks; we have been busy exploring Adelaide and the surrounding areas, and spending money on our car!

Adelaide, dubbed ‘The City of Churches’, is the state capital of South Australia (SA), and is situated almost midway between Sydney and Perth on the south coast of Australia. Despite it’s consistently high ranking in the ‘Worlds Most Liveable Cities’ index, and the fact that house prices have tripled in the past decade, Adelaide seems to hold a bad reputation as a place which doesn’t really have that much going for it. Bizarre…

Our first impression of Adelaide was good. We spent two days passing through the city so that Simon could replace his defunct camera, before we headed out to the Barossa Valley and the Flinders Ranges. The weather was good, and we appreciated our time in this relatively small city.

The Barossa Valley, a famous wine region, was beautiful and, in our opinion, more spectacular than the Hunter Valley in NSW. Making the most of the sunshine and our quiet campsite, we kicked back for a few days. Before travelling north to the Flinders, we sampled the local produce and purchased a couple of bottles of Riesling from Yalumba, the oldest family-owned winery in the Barossa, to take with us. We believe that Yalumba export to the UK, so this may be a name that you are familiar with.

The journey north to the Flinders was long, and gave us our first glimpse of the arid “Red Centre”, so called because of the bright red clay soils and sparse greenery amongst it’s landscape. The campsite that we stayed at was our first without any grass, as water is too valuable in these parts to be used for watering the lawn. Having said that, during our stay here the weather was poor, and was generally overcast and wet. Wilpena Pound, a natural amphitheatre of mountains, is one of the most popular sites in the Flinders Ranges. Unfortunately, following our 20 minute hike (yes, Mum, we hiked!) to an excellent lookout, our view of the Pound was obscured by cloud, so we have had to borrow someone else’s photograph to show you what it looks like!

Courtesy of phototoursaustralia.com

We have now returned to Adelaide, and have used the time to get some minor repair work done on the van. This, of course, comes at a price, and we are disappointed to hear that the clutch will need replacing shortly as well.

The good news is that the van is now fully kitted up for running our electrical gadgets from our solar panel. However, the installation of this brought to light the terrible, and dangerous, work done by the Auto Electrician when we purchased the van from Kings Cross in Sydney! *Note to any travellers that are considering purchasing a vehicle from these guys – be sure to obtain an independent mechanical AND electrical check (from the NRMA) BEFORE you leave Sydney. We didn’t, and now wish that we had done… How can people like this sleep at night, knowing that they have effectively placed a ticking time-bomb in the back of an ignorant, and unsuspecting, backpacker’s car?! Anyway, all is good now…

Tomorrow morning, we continue our road trip, first heading north and then south around the Spencer Gulf. We have an overnight stop at Port Augusta en route to Port Lincoln, where we will be cage diving with Great White Sharks on Wednesday. Assuming that we make it out alive, we will continue to follow the south coast, heading north west towards Perth.

Between Ceduna and Perth we will sample our first proper taste of the “real” Australia: enormous treeless plains, endless driving, bush camping, and extortionately priced Outback fuel. This is a 1200km journey (nearly 1000 miles) across the Nullarbor Plain, from one point of civilisation to another, with relatively little in-between. Before we leave Ceduna we will stock up on water and imperishable food items, and make the most of our final shower before we arrive in Norseman, Western Australia (WA).

From Norseman we are heading south to Esperance and Cape Le Grand National Park, where the white sandy beaches are reputedly some of the best in the world. We are fast approaching winter in Australia, so we hope to be able to experience this part of the world in all of it’s glory before the snow comes!

So by early-mid May, we will be arriving in Perth, WA, where we will spend at least six months topping up our rapidly depleting funds. Our aim is to continue north, although we must plan our trip around the wet season, which makes the northern part of Australia virtually inaccessible during the summer months of November – April.

We have uploaded some more photographs to our Flickr account, which you can accessing by clicking here, or by clicking the ‘Our Flickr’ button on the homepage.

So, we may be out of reach for the next couple of weeks, but as soon as we’re able to get back online, we’ll be in touch.

Lots of love from us both, xx